Comune di Bagnacavallo

The heart of the historic town centre of Bagnacavallo is its main square piazza della Libertà. The ancient town makes a striking scene; its palaces, churches and lanes are set out in perfect proportion. This makes the town very cinematic; some of the best Italian directors have shot their films here since the ’60s. The authentic character of the place is revealed by the warm hospitality of the locals, whose remarkable respect for nature and traditions is easily passed on to visitors too.
Tourists will discover the great heritage of Bagnacavallo – art, culture and gastronomy – and what makes it one of the most interesting places in the Province of Ravenna.

According to legend, the place name Bagnacavallo comes from a hypothetical water spring which healed the beloved horse of the Emperor Tiberius; this is confirmed by the motto of the coat of arms of the municipality: Ingredior rhoebus, cyllaros egredior (I enter ill, I leave healthy). A more mundane explanation is that visitors trying to get into town had to cross a marsh on horseback. It is certain that the origins of this lively cultural town are really ancient; late Bronze Age archaeological findings were discovered in the area. There are also traces of Umbrian, Etruscan and Gallic settlements, but it’s with the Romans that the town became more important. After the fall of the Roman Empire, Bagnacavallo was in the hands of several rulers over the centuries; in 1376 it was given to the English mercenary leader John Hawkwood as payment for his services.
From 1440 it was the property of the House of Este, who held it for a century and a half; this was a period of renaissance for the town. The Este introduced a statute and the farming of new plants, such as “uva d’oro” (grapes of gold), a new vine that came to the area as the dowry of Renata of France, wife of Ercole II. Up until the unification of the country, Bagnacavallo was part of the Papal States for more than two centuries, except for a short spell of Napoleonic domination (1800-1815). The heritage of these various influences is clearly visible in the wellpreserved old town, with its original Medieval curvilinear structure (which is unique in the region) and its numerous monuments, ancient stately homes and religious buildings.

Bagnacavallo has been mentioned by important writers, such as Dante, for instance. The 14th canto of Purgatorio reads: “Ben fa Bagnacaval che non rifiglia, e mal fa Castrocaro, e peggio Conio che di figliar tai conti più s’mpiglia”. The sarcastic statement praises the Counts Malvicini from Bagnacavallo and their lack of male heirs (and their incapacity to generate any). Probably Dante’s point of view isn’t determined by a personal relationship with the Malvicini; it is more likely that he’s motivated by a sense of disapproval for the influence of the Papal States over Romagna. The poet was less harsh with Bagnacavallo than with other towns of Romagna, possibly because Caterina Malvicini married Guido Novello Da Polenta,
a member of the family that hosted Dante in Ravenna till the end of his life. Bagnacavallo is linked to another eminent writer: George Gordon Byron. While the poet was staying in Ravenna,he placed his daughter Allegra (born out of a brief relationship with Claire Clairemont, stepsister of the famous Mary Shelley) in the care of the nuns of the convent of San Giovanni in Bagnacavallo, which was a renowned boarding school for young girls in those days. Not many people are aware of the fact that the municipal theatre is named after the illustrious playwright Carlo Goldoni because his dad, Giulio, worked as assistant physician in Bagnacavallo for a while. He died from a so-called malignant fever and was buried in the private chapel of the Gajani family in the church of San Girolamo. The near village of Boncellino is the birthplace of the infamous bandit Stefano Pelloni; popularly known as Passatore, he achieved the fame of some sort of “Robin Hood of Romagna”. Bursôn is the name of a wine and of a type of local grape, unique in its kind, which was saved from extinction in the 1950s by the farsighted Longanesi, a family popularly nicknamed Bursôn. This full-bodied red wine is the king of all local produce safeguarded and advocated by
the consortium “Il Bagnacavallo”, whose range of typical local products includes vinegar, grappa, saba (grape must syrup), honey, meat and traditional cakes such as sugal (made with must), savòr (made with quinces), mistochine and piadot (made with chestnut flour) and dolce di San Michele (made with a secret recipe). These delicacies can be enjoyed during one of the many feast and events that enliven Bagnacavallo. The town is also famous for its “Circo della Pace”, a circus with spectacular performers from all over the world, which is set up every Christmas in the heart of the historic town centre.

THINGS TO SEE

Piazza della Libertà
This is the heart of Bagnacavallo and of its architecture; when visitors arrive in Piazza della Libertà from one of the narrow and curvy streets of the
town centre, the square certainly offers a scenic view, with all its interesting buildings. At night, discreet public lights emphasise the silhouettes of
buildings and enhance the town atmosphere.

Palazzo Comunale
Piazza della Libertà, 12
The neoclassical town hall was designed by Cosimo Morelli and was built from 1791 onwards. The balcony bears the town coat of arms, depicting a horse with the left front leg raised over water. The portico floor on the west side of the building features a sundial made out of a marble slate. The town hall and the nearby theatre stand on the former location of what used to be a grand stately home until the end of the 17th century; this was owned by the Brandolini, one of the most powerful and influential families of Bagnacavallo during the 14th century. This building had a wide portico which hosted the town market; it was very aptly known as “Portico delle Bugie” (portico of the lies).

Teatro Comunale Carlo Goldoni
Piazza della Libertà, 18 – Tel. +39 0545 280898
The municipal theatre was designed by the Bolognese architect Filippo Antolini and built between 1839 and 1845 next to the town hall. Since its early days it has hosted a high quality programme of events and this is still the case today. The best way to admire the theatre is to attend a show; spectators will enjoy the semi-circular stalls, three tiers of galleries with seats and an upper gallery, beautiful stuccos and frescos decorating the whole interior and the richly embellished proscenium arch. The beautiful curtain dates back to the early 19th century and was painted by the Bolognese Antonio Muzzi. In 1907 the theatre was named after Carlo Goldoni because his dad had worked as a physician in Bagnacavallo for several years; Giulio Goldoni is buried in the church of San Girolamo.

Palazzo Vecchio
Piazza della Libertà, 5
This 13th century palace was built on the western side of the square when the Bolognese ruled Bagnacavallo; back then the local Podestà had his headquarters here, while today it hosts municipal offices and the tourist information centre. At the beginning of the 18th century a fire destroyed the palace, which was subsequently rebuilt with an additional floor. World War II bombing damaged it again and Palazzo Vecchio was rebuilt in the early 1950s. The inner courtyard of the palace features one of the entrances to the basement tunnel that was part of the ancient fortress; in the courtyard there is also an Armenian memorial stone which was donated to the municipality in 1998. The ground floor of the building has a large public space that regularly hosts art exhibitions and meetings.

Torre civica
Next to Palazzo Vecchio lies the civic tower, which was built in the second half of the 13th century and modified in the 16th century, when the clock was also added. The scarp wall features a series of large nails that locals use to hang lost objects, so that the owners might find them again. Between the 17th and the 19th century the tower was a prison and its three storeys were popularly called, from top to bottom, Inferno, Purgatorio and Paradiso. The bandit Stefano Pelloni, known as “Il Passatore”, was one of the most famous prisoners of the tower; he was here in 1849.

Chiesa del Suffragio
Via Trento Trieste, 1
This elegant 17th century Baroque church lies on the other side of Palazzo Vecchio. The entrance has a portico with limestone columns. The interior houses a sumptuous 18th century wooden choir. The church is open for worshipping, but it also hosts exhibitions and concerts throughout the year.

Antica galleria
Via Trento Trieste – Open every day, 10:00 – 18:00
This basement tunnel connects via Trento Trieste with the inner courtyard of Palazzo Vecchio; it used to be part of the underground area of the former convent of the Jesuits but has always been a public passageway.

Colleggiata di San Michele Arcangelo
The church is located between piazza della Libertà and the beginning of Via Mazzini. Originally a 12th century church, it was rebuilt in the 17th century and granted the title of “collegiate” by Pope Benedict XIV in 1741. The presbytery houses a remarkable altarpiece by the local painter Bartolomeo Ramenghi (1484 – 1542), depicting Christ on a throne of clouds with Saints Archangel Michael, John the Baptist, Bernardino and Peter the Apostle.

Palazzo Folicaldi
Via Mazzini, 100
The 17th century palace has a brick façade and scarp walls; an additional storey was added in the 19th century. On the second floor there is a private chapel built for the bishop Giovanni Benedetto Folicaldi. The palace boasts Pope Pius IX amongst its guests; the Pope stayed here in 1857 during his visit to Romagna. At the beginning of the 17th century the building belonged to Lazzari; the son of this family insistently courted a young woman who worked with silk at Folicaldi’s. As Mrs Folicaldi strongly opposed the young man visits to the house, he had a violent reaction and stabbed her; she died and he went into hiding. The old Lazzari wanted to avoid the explosion of a spiral of violence between the two families and pleaded for forgiveness; as a reconciliation act he donated the palace to Paolo Folicaldi, and so the building was renamed Palazzo Folicaldi.

Palazzo Abbondanza
Via Mazzini, 45/A
It was built in 1675 to house the warehouse of the town’s food administration body. It has also housed the first public theatre of the town, a public hostel and the barracks. The memorial stone above the door is a memento of its original function.

Porta Superiore
The 18th century town gate is decorated on the outside and was erected on the remains of the former fortress gate.

CASTELLACCIO
Via Baracca
The 15th century fortified building has a very simple brick façade and scarp walls with a rounded frame.

VIA GARIBALDI
A walk in Via Garibaldi almost equals to a journey through the centuries, given the amount of buildings from different historical periods that can be seen here.

Porticato of via Garibaldi
The third and the fourth sections of the portico feature segmental arches; these are the last traces of the 15th century portico made of terracotta.

Palazzo Gradenigo
Via Garibaldi, corner with via Farini The entrance vault bears the coat of arms of the Venetian family that built the 18th century palace. The building was modified over the centuries; it has a remarkable portico in via Farini.

Palazzo Massari
Via Garibaldi / via Taglioni
Next to Palazzo Gradenigo lies this imposing 17th – 18th century palace; the rear part of the building overlooks via Taglioni.

Torraccia
Via Garibaldi, 27
The 13th century tower is one of the oldest buildings of the town centre. The building plan has a square structure, scarp walls and a terracotta frame.

Chiesa e Convento di San Giovanni
Via Garibaldi, 29
Built in 1336, it originally housed the monastery of the Camaldolites. It was rebuilt after the 1688 earthquake and in 1816 it became property of the Capuchin nuns; they are still the owners. Its girls’ boarding school was renown in the early 19th century; it hosted Allegra, daughter of George Gordon Byron, and the memorial stone at the convent entrance commemorates the event: “In this convent of S. Giovanni Battista Lord Byron placed his daughter on the 22nd of January 1821. During the month of August, P.B. Shelley visited Allegra and found her healthy and happy, unaware that the following 20th of April she would die at the age of five years and three months”.

Sacrario dei Caduti (or Chiesa dei Battuti Bianchi)
Via Garibaldi
The friars Battuti Bianchi established the church in 1399; in the 18th century it was rebuilt and the municipality bought it in 1908. It is a church used for worship and it commemorates the victims of wars. It houses a precious 18th century canvas depicting the Madonna of the Immaculate Conception.

Palazzo Tesorieri
Via Garibaldi, 75
The 17th century palace used to be the main building of the former convent of the Clarisse. The inner courtyard still features the lancet arches of the ancient cloister and the old mill.

Porta Pieve
The town gate lies on the edge of the historic town centre; it bears a memorial stone which reveals that the gate was rebuilt in 1836.

VIA GARZONI
This narrow and characteristic lane is home to Palazzo Liverani, at no.6, and Palazzo Randi, at no.16.

Chiesa di San Girolamo
Via Garzoni
It was built in 1450 and modified over the course of the following two centuries. Not to be missed: the 16th century wooden crucifix, The Incredulity of Saint Thomas painted by Giovan Battista Ramenghi, and
the tomb of Giulio Goldoni, father of playwright Carlo and physician in Bagnacavallo.

MUSEO CIVICO DELLE CAPPUCCINE
Via Vittorio Veneto, 1/A – Opening hours: Monday to Saturday 10:00 – 12:00 and 15:00 – 18:00 (winter); 16:00 – 19:00 (summer); Sunday and
public holidays: 10:00 – 12:00 and 15:00 – 18:00 (winter), 16:00 – 19:00 (summer); closed: Monday, the day after a public holiday, August 1-25
Free admission – Tel. +39 0545 280912 / 3 / 4 – www.centrolecappuccine.it
The museum is located in the former convent of the Capuchin nuns; the old vegetable garden of the nuns was converted into a public green area. The building houses important ancient and modern art collections, the library and a remarkable historical archive. Worth of mention are the rooms with Enzo Morelli’s work (a contemporary painter born here) and the library collections dedicated to famous local writers: Thomaso Garzoni and Leo Longanesi. The Gabinetto delle Stampe Antiche e Moderne is the prints collection, featuring a flourishing exhibition programme; the Louvre museum has recently requested a copy of the collection’s Repertorio degli
incisori italiani. There is also a wide gallery for contemporary art exhibitions.

PALAZZO RUSCONI
Via Armando Diaz, 21
This 17th century palace has a sober façade with scarp walls and terracotta frames.

PALAZZO GRAZIANI E ORTO BOTANICO
Via Armando Diaz, 35 – Opening hours of the garden, Monday to Saturday: 09:30 – 17:00 (winter); 08:30 – 22:00 (summer); Sunday and public holidays: 09:30 – 17:00 (winter); 08:30 – 22:00 (summer) Free admission
This 18th century palace is famous for its richly decorated façade and for the largest walled green area of the town; known as “Giardino dei Semplici” (Hortus Semplicium), this is the last botanical garden in Bagnacavallo.
It has four areas: Umbraculum (for relaxation and meditation), Pomarium (with fruit trees), Hortus Holerorum (with plants used for food preparation) and Hortus Sanitatis (with officinal plants). “Il Giardino degli Aforismi” is a series of benches decorated with aphorisms celebrating the scathing humour of the writer, graphic designer, journalist and publisher Leo Longanesi.

CHIESA DELLA MISERICORDIA
Via Armando Diaz, corner with Via Brandolini
Home to the brotherhood known as “Confraternita della Buona Morte”, the 16th century building was restored the following century with a Baroque style.

PALAZZO CAPRA
Via Matteotti, 29
The 17th century palace is one of the most beautiful in Bagnacavallo. Christina Queen of Sweden stayed here in 1662 while on her way to Rome.

CHIESA E CONVENTO DI SAN FRANCESCO
Piazza Carducci – The church is open on Thursday, Friday and Saturday, 16:00 – 18:00 (summer); 15:00 – 17:00 (winter)
Originally this was a 13th century building; it was modified several times and rebuilt in the 18th century. After years of neglect, the monastery and its beautiful cloister have been carefully restored and reopened in 2000. The monastery houses a hostel for tourists and a series of rooms, amongst which Sala Oriani, the wide Franciscan refectory completed in 1766, with wooden seats and precious paintings. Sala Oriani and the other rooms host exhibitions, meetings, seminars, literary events and film screenings. The church contains the image of the Blessed Virgin of Jerusalem brought to Bagnacavallo by the monk Giovan Battista de Marabesi from the Holy Land; it also houses the tombstone bas-relief of Tiberto VI Brandolini.

PIAZZA NUOVA
This unique oval square is one of the most characteristic architectural features of Bagnacavallo. It was built in 1758 and used to be a market place for the sale of meat, fish and oil. The outside of the building has a brick façade and the inside has a portico with round arches running along the whole perimeter of the square; this portico houses several shops. It is a very romantic place and visitors can have very different experiences here. If it’s quiet and the weather is misty the place has almost a metaphysical atmosphere; on the contrary, during one of the local food and wine events that often take place here, the square becomes a lively theatre staging the excellence of local produce.

IN THE AREA

COMPLESSO MONUMENTALE DI VILLA SAVOIA
Via Reale, 43 (Glorie) – Tel. +39 0544 521431
The imposing stately home is about 9 km from Bagnacavallo on the main road SS16 via Reale which leads to Ravenna. It was built between the 17th and the 18th century to dominate the surrounding countryside, which was full of marshes back then. The building includes an oratory with elegant
Baroque decorations and a parsonage, which is inside the palace; the main hall of the building boasts two large frescos by Tomaso Bibiena. Villa Savoia is property of the diocese of Faenza.

LA TORRE
Via Traversara (Traversara)
The tower lies in the middle of the countryside and was built in 1371 for the Counts Hercolani of Traversara. When the Hercolani moved their official residence into a new palace in the heart of Bagnacavallo, this became their summer house; the Counts used it until the 19th century. The tower was
modified in 1717 and in 1736; in 1944 it was damaged by bombs and then partly rebuilt.

PIEVE DI SAN PIETRO IN SYLVIS
This is one of the best preserved Romanesque parish churches of the Province of Ravenna; it is about 1 km from the historic town centre of Bagnacavallo. It was built in the 7th century and its name indicates that this church was originally nearby a wood. It has a very simple structure with
a central nave and one aisle at each side of it; the apse is circular in the church interior and polygonal outside.
The left aisle features a series of memorial stones and the remains of an interesting ciborium. The apse has some remarkable 14th century frescos ascribed to Pietro da Rimini. The other walls and the pillars bear traces of 15th century frescos. Legend has it that, on his way to Ravenna, Dante
Alighieri stopped here to pray. As a matter of fact, it seems possible that near the parish there was a port on the wetlands, which connected Ravenna with the inland towns.
The Ferrarese painters that decorated the parish in the 15th century created a Madonna, depicted on a throne with the child, with a profile that distinctively resembles that of the famous poet; this can be seen on the third pillar on the left. If the reference were true, we could hypothesise that
the painters wanted to pay homage to Dante Alighieri and his visit.

ECOMUSEO CIVILTÀ PALUSTRE
Largo Tre Giunchi, 1 and via Ungaretti (Villanova di Bagnacavallo)
Tel. +39 0545 47122; e-mail barangani@racine.ra.it – www.erbepalustri.it
This museum has saved the memory, the heritage and the skills related to the craftsmanship that is unique and specific to the small village of Villanova. This consists of the centuries old processing of local marsh plants to create objects. During the booming period, these handmade items were even exported to the United States. The weaving techniques at the heart of this craft are extremely rich and have very high cultural value. The museum
houses a large collection of items created between the end of the 19th century and 1950; objects are made with a variety of marsh plants (reed and sedge, for instance) and with local kinds of wood such as poplar and willow. This craft was actively developed by the locals from the 14th century
till the second half of the 20th century and the museum is also particularly interested in understanding and documenting the technical side. The museum’s educational department plays an active role within local environmental education projects and within those related to wetlands, in particular the Po Delta. Guided tours to the museum offer the possibility to see skilled artisans engaged in the creation of objects; the expert hands
of these people still carry the poetry of tradition into the present. This museum is unique and features six displays, one of which is outdoors; this is called Etnoparco Villanova delle Capanne, it is located in Via Ungaretti, near the museum, and presents a selection of the main types of ancient huts that used to be built with local marsh plants and wood.

MAIN EVENTS
Dates are subject to change. For information please visit the
website www.romagnadeste.it

1st SUNDAY of MARCH, APRIL AND MAY – Villanova di Bagnacavallo – La Soffitta in Piazza – Street market with vintage items, collectables, arts and craft, natural products Tel. +39 0545 47122
MAY – Alla Corte di Bacco – A month-long event dedicated to traditional food and wine, with taverns in Piazza della Libertà featuring local produce, with tastings of the best local wine, the competition for the best Bursôn IGT. And also: concerts, folklore dancing, street markets and guided tours of the town with horse drawn carriage – Tel. +39 0545 280898
JUNE, JULY, AUGUST – Bagnacavallo d’Estate Street shows, art exhibitions, night cycling itineraries, library night events, street markets, meetings and folk feasts
JUNE, JULY, AUGUST – Bagnacavallo al Cinema – Longrunning arthouse films showcase, screening excellent Italian and foreign films, unusual and new work by emerging filmmakers, Q&A with film directors. In the beautiful Parco delle Cappuccine Tel. +39 347 1819575 – www.arenabagnacavallo.com
2nd of SEPTEMBER – Villanova di Bagnacavallo – Sagra della Civiltà delle Erbe Palustri – Celebration of the traditional craftsmanship of marsh plants and local wood – Tel. +39 0545 47122 – www.erbepalustri.it
LAST WEEK of SEPTEMBER – Festa di San Michele It dates back to the 13th century; it is the oldest feast in Bagnacavallo and represents an excellent opportunity to discover the charm of this ancient and beautiful town. Special taverns in unusual places – Tel. +39 0545 280898
2nd OF OCTOBER – Villanova di Bagnacavallo – Villanova in Corto – Independent and low budget short film festival – www.villanovaincorto.net
From NOVEMBER to APRIL – Nuovo Cinema Bagnacavallo At Convento di San Francesco, film screenings for young people and arthouse films – Tel. +39 347 1819575
From DECEMBER 20 to JANUARY 6 – Il Circo della Pace The circus tent in piazza della Libertà hosts the spectacular acrobatics and solidarity of circus artists from various countries of the world – Tel. +39 0545 64330
From DECEMBER 20 to JANUARY 31 – Presepe di Villa Prati – Mechanical holy crib with special effects: figurines and backgrounds move throughout the day and at night
From OCTOBER to MAY La stagione del Teatro Goldoni
ALL YEAR LONG – Printmaking, modern and contemporary art exhibitions at Museo Civico delle Cappuccine

Tourist Information Centre
Piazza della Libertà, 4 – Opening hours: Monday to Sunday,
09:30 – 12:30, on Saturday also 15:00 – 18:00 (DST) or 14:30 – 17:30
Tel. +39 0545 280898; fax +39 0545 280859
e-mail turismo@comune.bagnacavallo.ra.it
www.romagnadeste.it
www.comune.bagnacavallo.ra.it